"Now we're getting almost to what's known as Rembrandt, which is three-quarter front. But true Rembrandt has the nose shadow join the cheek's shadow, so you have a little triangle under the eye. And the way you move the triangle up and down on the cheek or into the eye socket is how you kind of maneuver that particular look."
Burum says that he operates the tests himself. "I look through the lens, and I go, 'Okay, look over this way, look over that way,' and I have little places for her to look. One will be butterfly, one will be half-and-half, one will be Rembrandt."
Wig and hair variations.
"We did both her profiles. I said to her, 'Carla, you've really got a great profile.' And she said, 'My father's an orthodontist. He worked 14 years on this profile. He says that I'm his work of art.' And I said, 'You sure are.'"
This test shows Gugino's other profile. "I did one right and one left," says Burum. "But again, you see that the light's coming in on what we call her look. It's really butterfly lighting, but because we're on the side, we have a bigger volume of shadow." Here, he says, he's looking for how the light falls, and how far he can bring it around.
